Well the cat’s out of the Chanel bag. After month's of speculation that ex French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld was cooking up a magazine of her own and sly little hints her and there she sat down with WWD and spilled all the glorious details. Simply titled CR, the fashion mag will be be released biannually with the first issue hitting your manicured hands in September. The first images from inside CR Fashion Book were revealed as well which are absolutely incredible.
“The name’s not a big surprise, but oh well,” she explained to WWD. She also released mock-ups of the cover as well as some editorials. Carine described CR as a “celebration of fashion and creativity” from a mix of well-known talents and promising upstarts — and that applies to the photographers, writers, models and stylists. “I’m in the middle of searching for new talents, and it’s so exciting and energizing,” she said.
Fashion Media Group LLC, the New York-based company behind Visionaire, V and VMan, will publish CR Fashion Book, the magazine’s full registered name.
“Carine Roitfeld is one of the most talented editors in our industry. She deserves an editorial platform with which to express herself, and I’m happy to provide one,” said Fashion Media founder Stephen Gan. “I hope it will enlighten. I hope it will build bridges not walls. The fashion magazine industry has gotten too political.”
Fashion Media is projecting more than 100 pages of advertising in the first 288-page issue, which will carry a cover price of $9.95. Some 50,000 copies will be printed, with roughly half the distribution in Europe, and the balance in Asia and the U.S. Reflecting the title’s trendy and freelance spirit, offices will be based at The Standard hotel in New York’s East Village. The lucky model on the debut cover is Kati Nescher who was shot by Sebastian Faena. One of our favorite photos from inside the magazine is of Patti Smith wearing a fantastic gown and veil that was captured in dramatic back/white by Bruce Weber.
As for any Anna Wintour harnessed roadblocks against the rumored rival there seem to be none when it comes to designers and advertising. Apparently Roitfeld attended meetings with potential advertisers for the first time in her career — including Gucci, Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Cartier and Louis Vuitton — and said she found them “very receptive and eager to participate.”
She quoted an Apple Computers slogan from the Nineties — “think different” — as her modus operandi.The magazine itself will be not quite traditional. Very Carine, very French, very not Condé Nast (Vogue’s parent company). Roitfeld noted however that she would not be able to work with certain photographers who have contractual ties to other magazines, Mario Testino being one example.
Unusual features of CR extend to advertising: It will only carry spreads, echoing the book-like mission of editorial, with no front-of-book section and only longer-format articles. “I hope people will want to keep it —trendy and timeless at the same time,” she said.
CR Fashion Book will also have an online component, which Roitfeld described as “the perfect platform” for front-of-book content across fashion, art and culture. She said the site would be updated frequently, and teasers for upcoming issues will be posted.
Each issue will be constructed around a theme, such as music, or “obsession,” which is the case for the mock-up shown to advertisers. Across fashion and beauty spreads, models resembling characters out of William Klein’s 1966 French film “Who are you, Polly Magoo?” are depicted gazing at themselves obsessively in mirrors.
Although CR is an English publication, Roitfeld said she intends to publish certain articles in the native language of their author, with translations to be found at the back. For example, if filmmaker Pedro Almodóvar were to pen something for her, it would be in Spanish.
Known for producing provocative and sometimes sexually charged imagery, Roitfeld said she intends to continue styling shoots, and to “find new ways to be irreverent” after some 30 years in the business. “Not necessarily safer, but different,” she vowed.
When asked if starting her own magazine and adopting such a non-traditional format compared to her years working at Vogue was some sort of middle-finger laced revenge she diplomatically denies any such notion. “Vogue is a very beautiful magazine, an institution, and I learned so much working there,” she said. “You can’t put yourself into competition with a magazine like Vogue; you have to create something new, something different. The page has been turned, it’s time to find something new, something fresh — for me and for the readers.”
Images VIA WWD